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Индия. День 5-6. Сады, храмы, обезьяны








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Индия. День 5-6. Сады, храмы, обезьяны


Катериана Оралбаева

Детали начинаешь замечать чуть позже, когда поток ахов и охов иссякает, и детали эти не самые лицеприятные. В воде вместе с верующими толстопузами плавают всевозможные отходы цивилизации, строения рассыпаются на глазах и давно нуждаются в реставрации, милые игривые обезьянки оказываются агрессивными драчунами с ссадинами и нездоровым видом.

На утро была назначена важная миссия – продраться через толпы к привокзальной кассе и купить билет до пустынного Биканера. Начавшиеся ни свет, ни заря работы по положению нового асфальта как раз способствовали раннему пробуждению и поднятию зверского и воинственного настроения.

В окошке на вокзале угрюмое лицо, с оттопыренными во все стороны усами, иностранцев явно не жаловало. Нужных билетов не оказалось. Прошу проверить один поезд, другой, наконец, пробиваем данные и в окошке с цифрой высвечивается сумма в 700 с лишним рупий. Даю 2000. В виде сдачи мне тут же протягивается купюра в 1000. После моего отказа её брать в окошке начинается буря, ураган, смерч и тайфун разом. Усач брызжет слюной и орёт, что ему нечем сдавать сдачу. Толпа из родных европейских лиц напрягается за моей спиной - их очередь ещё впереди. Решаю не искушать судьбу, возвращаю ему недействительную бумажку и достаю сотенные. Сначала, впрочем, требую вернуть мои 2000.
- Какие 2000?!
- Я дала Вам 2000 рупий!
- Нет!!!
- Да!!
Мы уже орём друг на друга, и я своим выступающим хребтом ощущаю, что толпа сейчас ринется крушить весь этот индийский беспредел в лице кассира.

Деньги, к счастью, возвращаются, билет куплен. Правда, в Джайпуре мне придётся задержаться ещё на день...

В планах на сегодня – долгожданный храм Ханумана, но для начала можно заскочить в два сада на периферии в нужном мне направлении. Сажусь в туктук, называю одну из достопримечательностей, получаю убедительные кивки от рикши, торгуюсь и... вижу, как водитель собирается поворачивать в обратном направлении. Ситуация эта для местного транспорта очень типична, и пока к ней не привыкнешь, жутко выводит из себя. Возчики 25 раз повторяют название, радостно кивают, яростно торгуются и в итоге понятия не имеют, куда вас нужно везти. Впрочем, это иногда пассажиру только на руку. Главное, на цене потом стоять твёрдо.

Уже в первых садах Vidyadhar Ka Bagh я понимаю, как соскучилась по природе и по горам. 

 

Vidyadhar Ka Bagh

За высокой стеной царит тишина и, самое удивительное, чистота. Из посетителей – только индийская парочка, обнимающаяся на лавочке в тени. Но задерживаться здесь не стоит. Самое интересное – впереди. Буквально в 10 минутах пешего хода прячется от туриста настоящее сокровище – сад Сисодия (Sidodia Rani garden).

  
Sisodia Rani garden

Выйдя замуж за правителя Удайпура Савай Джай Сингха II при условии, что сын станет наследником трона, молодая супружница Сисодия сбежала от придворных интриг за пределы городской стены. Специально для неё в 18 веке был выстроен небольшой двухэтажный дворец с прилегающими к нему душистыми садами, где забывались не только дворцовые передряги, но и вся светская жизнь. Я провела здесь больше часа под деревом за книжкой и даже задумалась о возвращении, раз уж в городе застряла на лишние сутки. Полнейшее умиротворение разлито здесь под каждым кустом, нарушают усыпляющую идиллию только юркие бурундуки, снующие повсюду.

Видимо, покой этот и заставил меня окончательно позабыть, в какой стране я нахожусь, и что творится вокруг. До главной моей цели было около пяти километров. Местность сельская, пустынная, вокруг шикарные гористые пейзажи за колючими кустарниками и низкими деревцами. Почему бы не прогуляться?

Первые метры были лёгкими и радостными, пока реальность не вернулась ко мне в виде хорошего подзатыльника. Пассажиры редких машин и мотоциклов окидывали меня таким взглядом, от которого хотелось срочно оказаться в камере строгого режима какой-нибудь Боготы – там наверняка приятнее. Дикая природа носила следы дикого же человека – вдоль обочины валялись пластиковые бутылки и пачки от чипсов, на кустах колыхались и позванивали уцелевшими золотыми монетками растерзанные алые сари. Попадались грязные коровы в стадии полного дзен и стаи обезьян, компенсирующие отсутствие движения. 

С каждым шагом становилось всё больше не по себе, и мысленно я уже пыталась подсчитать оставшиеся километры. Настоящее похолодание в желудке пришло, когда одинокий мотоциклист, обогнав меня, вернулся обратно и через 5 минут снова возник рядом в сопровождении ещё двух "всадников" на стальных конях. Проделав трюк с обгоном несколько раз, бесцеремонно разглядывая меня и ухмыляясь, гонщики всё же скрылись за горизонтом. Я шла, ожидая подвоха на каждом углу. Но вместо этого за очередным поворотом увидела автомобильную стоянку и вход в храм. На душе сразу полегчало и посветлело. "Больше никаких прогулок!" - твёрдо решила я, и в следующие дни действительно была примерной девочкой.

Храм Гальта или храм Ханумана, в народе просто храм обезьян, не во всех путеводителях упоминается, хотя заядлые путешественники только о нём в Джайпуре и твердят. Потрясающей красоты место среди скал было выбрано в XVIII веке для строительства религиозного комплекса. Несколько часовенок, два более солидных здания и семь бассейнов со святой водой, поступающей из подземных источников. Среди всего этого архитектурного великолепия скачут и резвятся, почёсывают друг друга и поглаживают стаи диких обезьян, которые и дали современное название комплексу.

   
Обезьяны в лесу близ храма

Первое впечатление – дикий восторг от красоты местности. Детали начинаешь замечать чуть позже, когда поток ахов и охов иссякает, и детали эти не самые лицеприятные. В воде вместе с верующими толстопузами плавают всевозможные отходы цивилизации, строения рассыпаются на глазах и давно нуждаются в реставрации, милые игривые обезьянки оказываются агрессивными драчунами с ссадинами и нездоровым видом. Подходить к ним боязно – ощущение, будто вместе с шилопопым монстром на тебя напрыгнет весь ассортимент индийских зараз. Состояние от восторженного очень быстро переходит в удушающе плаксивое. До слёз обидно за эту красивую страну, полную мистики и истории, погребённую под слоями мусора.

   
Храм обезьян

Обратно в город возвращаюсь на такси с больничной белизны чехлами на сиденьях. В центре захожу в обычный "крестьянский" ресторанчик. Мест свободных почти нет, поэтому ко мне моментально подсаживается улыбчивая индианка. Я ещё не успела сделать заказ, но уже знала всё о её дочке, живущей в Америке. Большая часть информации не усвоилась из-за ужасного английского, но это не сильно волновало нас обеих. Я умирала от голода физического, она – от голода лингвистического. Или, скорее, от желания поделиться счастьем за своё семейство.

Поглощая рис, я молила о быстрой доставке её порции и старалась показать интерес к 125 фотографиям внука. Ситуация, однако, изменилась совсем не в ту сторону. Покончив с фотографиями, женщина взялась за меня. Эту глупую иностранку непременно нужно было научить правильно поглощать индийскую пищу! Не успела я понять, что происходит, как в моей тарелке замельтешили чужие руки, которые что-то солили, что-то поливали соком лайма, что-то просто смешивали. Половину намешанного есть я теперь не решалась. Тогда в ход пошли уговаривания и попытки покормить с рук или с ложечки. Я вежливо отбрыкивалась и пыталась побыстрее умять то, что могла ещё узнать в миске. В принесённый на десерт ласси вцепилась всей пятернёй, опасаясь, что туда тоже полетят дополнительные ингредиенты, которые размешаются потом заботливым пальцем.

На этом с новыми впечатлениями решено было покончить, я взгромоздилась в коляску рикши и отправилась дрыхнуть в отель.

Грохочущие бетоноукладчики под окном и накопившиеся интернет-дела заставили меня сменить отель на следующее утро. Правда, несколько часов до этого было посвящено скаканию по банкам в поисках открытого обменника.

Новое временное пристанище было хоть и в центре, но в тихих закоулочках. Два тенистых сада, внутренний закрытый дворик с креслами и книжками и отличная кухня в ресторане. Весь день я ела, строчила письма под весёлое чириканье и любовалась воздушными змеями, которые мальчуганы в красных рубашках запускали с соседней крыши. Точь-в-точь как в фильме "Миллионер из трущоб"!



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Семен (2016-12-06)
Вот вам и к туристам "со всем нашим уважением". А вы Катя уж очень отчаянная душа. И если для меня это млюс, то для вашей мамы наверное большой источник беспокойства и негодования
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Катя. О (2016-12-10)
Мама моя закивала бы сейчас и зоцокала в согласии с Вами :) негодования нет, но от беспокойства никуда не деться, хоть она и не знает пока многих подробностей.
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Мария (2016-12-06)
Какое потрясающе красивое место!!! Оно мистически прекрасно и какой увет у воды!!! Ни когда я про такое место не слышала! Хотя в Индии бывала не раз. Тебе нереально повезло попасть в такое заповедное
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Катя. О (2016-12-10)
Заповедного там ничего нет, но о месте и правда информации мало. Я им вдохновилась по индийским сериям "Мира наизнанку". Программа на ютубе есть, если вдруг о ней ещё кто-то не знает :)
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Илья (2016-12-06)
Екатерина, это совершенно удивительное путешествие, а сами вы совершенно удивительная девушка! Прочитал путь по дороге франков и теперь с таким же восторгом слежу за Индийским маршброском! И спасибо что делитесь с нами!
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Катя. О (2016-12-10)
Илья, спасибо, что читаете! Надеюсь, за Индией и другие авантюры скоро последуют.
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Юля (2016-12-06)
Катя, а в бассейнах и люди купаются? Верующие толстопузы это кто?
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Катя. О (2016-12-10)
Толстопузы - люди и есть. Состоятельные индийцы, большинство - бедняки кожа, да кости. Купаются и считают место священным. Так же, как и Ганг. Только здесь вода в отличие от Ганга не самоочищается...
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Индия. День 9. О крысах, мороженом из верблюжьего молока и индийской свадьбе

Катерина Оралбаева

Я на верблюжьей ферме... Приезжать сюда стоит после обеда, когда горбунов пригоняют с пастбищ... Животных можно трогать, гладить и даже совершить пятиминутную прогулку верхом.
Индия. День 10. Синий город Джодпур

Катерина Оралбаева

Дух счастливого провинциального местечка витал даже на шумной, как и положено, центральной площади с рынком. Оттуда начинался "синий город".
Индия. День 7-8. Сюрпризы Джайпура и открытия Биканера

Катериана Оралбаева

В этом укромном уголке затишье полное. Затишье и лёгкий звон Красоты. Резные барельефы с мифологическими и религиозными сценами, изящные колонны, переливы света на солнечном мраморе.
Индия. День 5-6. Сады, храмы, обезьяны

Катериана Оралбаева

Детали начинаешь замечать чуть позже, когда поток ахов и охов иссякает, и детали эти не самые лицеприятные. В воде вместе с верующими толстопузами плавают всевозможные отходы цивилизации, строения рассыпаются на глазах и давно нуждаются в реставрации, милые игривые обезьянки оказываются агрессивными драчунами с ссадинами и нездоровым видом.
Индия. День 4. Амбер, Удайпур и Дворец Ветров

Катерина Оралбаева

Кажущееся на первый взгляд прочным и солидным, здание по сути – розовое кружево. Пять этажей, всего одна комната в ширину, стены не толще 20 см и крошечные, хоть и многочисленные оконца...
Индия. День 3. Поезд в Джайпур и девочка Риту

Катерина Оралбаева

Приглашений встретиться и даже переночевать в Индии было множество, но доверия большинство из персонажей не внушало. Зато девочка Риту, которая учит русский, вдохновила меня сразу.
Индия. День 2. О рикшах, обмене валюты и прочих красотах

Катерина Оралбаева

На улице останавливаю рикшу и по всем правилам разыгрываю драму с заламыванием рук, взыванием к всевышнему и демонстративному уходу в сизую даль.
Индия. День 1. Дели, или добро пожаловать в Индию

Катерина Оралбаева

Индия представлялась мне колоритным экзотичным краем, где можно будет ночевать на вокзале так же спокойно, как в Китае, а местные женщины в красочных сари ещё и прикроют тебя лоскутным одеялком.