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Индия. День 23-24. О сюрпризах и сафари








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Индия. День 23-24. О сюрпризах и сафари


Катерина Оралбаева

В шесть утра наш джип уже рассекал тёмные сонные подворотни. Пять пассажиров вжимались в сидения и кутались в платки и куртки – холод стоял почти сибирский. У одного из придорожных баров решено было причалить для испития горячительного.

Будильник в недрах сумки под подушкой, укрытой курткой, заставляет моё ухо дёргаться от вибрации. Странно, но помимо этой вибрации никакого движения я больше не чувствую. Полка не покачивается, поезд не шатает. Кажется, мы стоим. От мысли этой я вскакиваю, ударяясь головой о лежбище соседа сверху, смотрю на часы и в кромешной тьме начинаю судорожно запихивать вещи в сумку, а ноги – в кроссовки. Пытаюсь добежать до выхода, но уже через пару метров притормаживаю. Кроме меня по вагону никто не бегает. Со всех сторон раздаётся мирный храп, из-под одеял торчат ноги, чемоданы разбросаны вдоль коридора. Как будто в ответ на мои мысли с одной из полок раздаётся голос:

- Поезд опаздывает на 4 часа.

Возвращаюсь. Снова устраиваю гнездо. Проверяю локацию по картам maps.me и с умиротворённой улыбкой засыпаю.

Опоздали мы в итоге больше, чем на 8 часов. На платформе в Кхаджурахо уже ждали рикши, чуть не отбирающие упакованные пожитки у зазевавшихся туристов.

Утром в поезде я пыталась бронировать один из лучших отелей, утопающих в зелени, но в последний момент, перед нажатием кнопочки "book", связь вдруг прервалась. Тогда я ещё не знала этого, но эта случайность поменяет не только мои планы в Кхаджурахо, но и отношение к Дели – самому ненавистному городу в Индии.

На выходе с вокзала я замерла в попытке решить, как же добираться до города, и с вопросом о транспорте обратилась к белокурому мальцу рядом. Разговорились очень быстро и тут же решили взять тук-тук на троих до центра города. У меня в планах на Кхаджурахо в первую очередь значилось не посещение храмов с эротическими сценами, а сафари. Отправляться туда интереснее и дешевле было группой, и я с радостью зацепилась за это случайное знакомство. Парня звали Марко, и уже по имени можно догадаться о его итальянских корнях. Миланское произношение только подтвердило это. Его подруга и спутница в путешествии Бетти была из Лондона.

Общение завязалось таким бурным и активным, что я неожиданно для самой себя решила остановиться с ними в хостеле. "На одну ночь, чтобы завтра съездить вместе поохотиться на тигров, а к вечеру переместиться в приличный отель" – пообещала я себе. В Кхаджурахо хотелось расслабиться, выбросить из головы столичный хаос, проводить вечера на террасе номера с видом на пальмы и есть в ресторане при отеле, не соприкасаясь больше с внешним миром.

Хостел в эту программу совсем не вписывался. Точнее, он вообще не вписывался в мои планы на Индию. Когда-то по молодости я останавливалась в таком туристическом "общежитии" в Китае, потом была вынужденная ночь в Будапеште, и на этом подобные эксперименты я решила завершить. Более того, в Индии даже звёздные отели иногда ошарашивали грязным бельём и проблемами с горячей водой, чего же можно было ожидать от самых дешевых ночлежек? Мысли эти одна за другой фейерверком вспыхивали в голове, но тоска по приятному общению не оставляла шансов сомнениям.

Хостел Zostel стал приятным сюрпризом. Оказалось даже, что здесь сдают и нормальные двухместные номера. Просто, чисто и аккуратно. А в открытых холлах и на крыше многолюдно и весело. Недостающие два человека в нашу команду "охотников за тиграми" нашлись очень быстро – две молодые индианки с радостью согласились разбавить наши европейские ряды.

С Мегой и Куки я в итоге проболтала до двух часов ночи – моё любопытство нашло выход и вопросы об образовании, об отношениях в семье, о мужчинах, о праздниках и быте лились неиссякаемым потоком. Если бы не запланированный на 5.30 джип, мы вполне вероятно провели бы на крыше всю ночь. Единственное, чего я не поняла, так это как довольно известный дизайнер и бывшая сотрудница Амазона, чья зарплата заставила бы залиться слезами зависти многих офисных работников Милана, оказались в этом простеньком хостеле. Чудеса, да и только!

В шесть утра наш джип уже рассекал тёмные сонные подворотни. Пять пассажиров вжимались в сидения и кутались в платки и куртки – холод стоял почти сибирский. У одного из придорожных баров решено было причалить для испития горячительного. На огне пыхтел чайник, хозяева только-только начинали приводить своё рабочее место в порядок, первые гости грелись у костра. 

 

Несмотря на внешнюю мрачность, подобные забегаловки приобретали в моих глазах всё большую привлекательность: в них чувствовалось какая-то дикая животная сила, разнузданная и безграничная свобода, безрассудность и отчаяние людей, которые готовы нарушить любые границы, потому что им нечего терять.

На въезде в парк к нам присоединился гид, и началась настоящая гонка. Джип мчался по ухабистой дороге, укутанной в утренний туман, рядом мелькали рога и копыта, но мы не успевали даже достать фотоаппараты – водитель жал на газ.

Приехав на точку ожидания полосатого хищника, где обычно уже таились другие такие же туристы, машина останавливалась, глушила мотор, и несколько минут проходило в гробовом молчании. Один из сотрудников парка пытался в это время отследить тигра по прицепленному к шкуре микро-чипу, обещал, что тот вот-вот появится, вертел головой в разные стороны, но в итоге неизменно разводил руками. Мол, что с этими тиграми поделаешь? Неразумные ведь существа...

 

В очередном пролеске гид вдруг замахал биноклем в экстазе. Тормоза взвизгнули, и мы все уставились в густые заросли. Там, на холме, на расстоянии нескольких десятков метров, вальяжно вышагивала рыжая усатая морда. Восторгу моих спутников не было предела, я же больше обрадовалась спаду охотничьего азарта – водитель теперь неспеша колесил по красивым заповедным местам, периодически останавливаясь рядом с гуляющими вокруг косулями.

 

О речной прогулке нас никто не предупреждал, в программе она не числилась, но тем больше энтузиазма вызвало у нас предложение забраться в лодку. 50 рупий (=рублей) экстра и полчаса мы с воды наблюдаем невероятную картину. Каменистые берега почти все усеяны толстыми серыми тушами греющихся на солнце крокодилов. При приближении лодки они нехотя поднимаются на толстые кривенькие лапки и ловко уходят под воду. Подобное зрелище произвело на меня гораздо больший эффект, чем тигриная шкура, мелькающая где-то вдали. Первые в моей жизни свободно гуляющие крокодилы!!

         

Вечером в Кхаджурахо мы с Марко и Бетти сходили на совместный прощальный ужин, обменялись телефонами, выяснили, что как раз успеем пересечься в Варанаси, и помахали друг другу платочками.

Стоит ли говорить, что я так комфортно чувствовала себя в хостеле, что никуда не стала перебираться, оставшись ещё на две ночи?..


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Keti (2016-12-28)
Невероятно как красиво!!!
Ответить на комментарий


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