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Индия. День 3. Поезд в Джайпур и девочка Риту








          Давайте дружить:
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Индия. День 3. Поезд в Джайпур и девочка Риту


Катерина Оралбаева

Приглашений встретиться и даже переночевать в Индии было множество, но доверия большинство из персонажей не внушало. Зато девочка Риту, которая учит русский, вдохновила меня сразу.
Прощание с Дели и счастья полные штаны! Некоторое волнение вызывает местный поезд, но я уже на всё согласна, лишь бы сбежать из этого бедлама. Проверив заранее расписание, иду на вокзал со всеми своими пожитками (целая дамская сумочка!) и разыскиваю там офис для туристов. Просторное чистое помещение, мягкие диванчики, кондиционеры – лучше, чем в моём гостиничном номере! Процесс бронирования билетов в Индии довольно своеобразный: перед обращением в кассу необходимо заполнить бланк, указав свои имя, фамилию, пол и возраст (они даже на билете потом пишутся!), контактные данные и детали маршрута. Номер поезда, его название и время отправления, класс желательно знать заранее и тоже указать, в таком случае не придётся три часа обсуждать это на корявом английском. Всё. С бумажечкой этой на кассе, если все данные указаны точно, вам можно не говорить ни слова.

С классами разобраться сложно, их в Индии невероятное количество. До Джайпура я брала билеты на 2АС – кондиционированный вагон вроде нашего плацкарта с двумя полками. Разница лишь в занавесочках, которые колышутся вдоль прохода, создавая при желании дополнительный интим.

Отправление через два часа с другого вокзала. Не торопясь добираюсь туда на метро, прохожу обязательную проверку и просветку, вижу свою платформу на табло и спокойно устраиваюсь в зале ожидания. Залов ожидания здесь несколько, для "вип" туристов вроде меня предусмотрено большое чистое помещение, где индийцы даже спокойно оставляют на подзарядке свои телефоны, удаляясь по своим делам. Это несколько успокаивает меня и даже позволяет ослабить хватку на сумке.

За десять минут до планируемого прибытия поезда я стою на платформе. Ючусь, пытаясь не наступить на разбросанные повсюду руки-ноги. Смотрят на меня с большим удивлением и, как мне кажется, с неприязнью.

С прибытием состава я начинаю метаться вдоль вагонов, не понимая их обозначений, пока не замечаю, что метаюсь я одна – разношерстная публика продолжает спокойно сидеть на грязном полу, удивление в их взглядах читается ещё больше. Натыкаюсь на какого-то важного сигха в тюрбане, похожего на проводника, сую ему под нос мой билет и узнаю, что это не тот поезд. Уфф.. отлегло. Но где же мой тогда??

Через десять минут ситуация повторяется. Смотрю вслед уходящему составу и начинаю опасаться, что никогда из этого города не уеду. Вспоминаю, что при поиске расписания онлайн натыкалась на сайт с отслеживанием поездов в реальном времени. Загружаю страницу, и -ура! ура! - вижу опоздание на 40 минут. Больше никаких метаний, спокойно провожаю третьего вклинившегося и вскоре оказываюсь в своём полупустом вагоне. На вагонах, кстати, вывешивают список пассажиров с указанием мест и (никакой прайваси!) опять же пола и возраста.

Снующий между шторок мальчик интересуется, буду ли я есть вегетарианскую еду или обычную. Я, думая, что еда включена в стоимость, прошу вегетарианскую, через 5 минут обнаруживаю себя со счетом в руках и подозрительным упакованным пайком туриста. Моё двухдневное голодание такой щедрый дар не позволяет отправить в корзину с мусором, и я решаю попробовать. Остро, но съедобно. Особенно рис и лепёшки чапати.

Обеденный паек в поезде

Снимаю кроссовки, устраиваюсь поудобнее на своём нижнем месте и с удовольствием устремляю взор на мелькающие в окне пейзажи.

Вид из окна

Крошечные деревеньки с мазанками, поля с яркими пятнами алых сари, красная пыльная земля и гуляющие повсюду коровы, собаки, свиньи и павлины, укладывающие в снопы вязанки с хворостом дети и изящные женщины с огромными чанами на головах – вот она, настоящая Индия, та, что представлялась мне и что так манила!

Здесь, пожалуй, стоит сделать отступление и сказать пару слов о Джайпуре как цели моей поездки. Я периодически пользуюсь сайтами, которые знакомят иностранцев с местным населением. Всё же никто не передаст дух города и не покажет его так же хорошо, как коренной житель! Приглашений встретиться и даже переночевать в Индии было множество, но доверия большинство из персонажей не внушало. Зато девочка Риту, которая учит русский, вдохновила меня сразу. Воображение тут же нарисовало большую индийскую семью, где женщины в красных с золотом сари улыбаются с материнским теплом и радушием, темнолицые мужчины крутят усы и попыхивают трубкой, при этом все, выстроившись рядком как для семейного фото, приглашают меня за стол и пичкают там домашней стряпнёй, благоухающей специями. Разве можно было от такого отказаться?! Конечно, я с радостью приняла приглашение и на три ночи рванула в гости.

Риту заранее предупредила, что от вокзала лучше взять туктук, и что стоить трансфер должен не больше 200 рупий. Приехала в Джайпур я уже в темноте, и тут же начала перепалку с рикшами. Несколько сразу отказались везти меня в такую тьму таракань, кто-то не мог разобраться в местоназначении, пока прибывший на место столпотверения полицейский не объяснил всё на пальцах самому перспективному водителю и не отправил меня с ним в ночь.

Старый город понравился мне сразу. Величественная архитектура, залитые светом площади, колоритные базарчики на всех улицах и переулках. Не терпелось вернуться сюда днём и всё потрогать, понюхать, рассмотреть. Туктук, однако, мчался дальше. Старый город остался позади, начились пролески и озёра. Хорошо, что маршрут я посмотрела заранее и причин для паники не видела. Настораживало другое – рикша останавливался каждые 500 метров у киосков и лотков, пытаясь узнать, куда же ему ехать. А такие умные глаза состроил и так закивал убедительно, когда с полицейским у вокзала общался! Мои тыканья пальцев в карту никакого эффекта не возымели, в итоге на очередной остановке пришлось созваниваться с хозяйкой и просить объяснить путь-дорогу этому недотёпе.

Почти через час кибитка наша остановилась в тёмной подворотне. Слева возвышалась массивная структура с резными балконами, подозрительно тёмная и пустынная. Зато справа у низкого недостроенного домика с кучами песка на входе меня уже ждали. Очень скромные "Hi, how are you?" и по узким лестницам меня ведут в какую-то комнату наверху. Разговор не клеится совсем. Ни на русском, ни на английском, ни, естественно, на хинди. Вспоминаю, что на следующий день у меня нет ни одной чистой майки и отпрашиваюсь в магазин. Брат Риту любезно предлагает сопроводить меня до магазинчика, не промышляющего разводом туристов. Не успела я согласиться, как перед домом из ниоткуда возник мотоцикл. Сажусь позади и... если вы никогда не были в Индии, вам не понять всех эмоций! То, что ездят здесь без касок и по трое-четверо на одном мото, женская поза со скинутыми на одну сторону ножками у слабого пола даже садикового возраста – всё это мелочи по сравнению с тем, КАК они водят! Я даже до сих пор не поняла, правосторонне в Индии движение или левостороннее. Все уверенно и невозмутимо едут туда, куда им требуется, стараясь объехать прущих также напролом пешеходов, бурёнок и бродячих псов. К моменту прибытия я была уверена, что понадобится не только новая футболка, но и пара новых панталон. К счастью, всё обошлось. Зато теперь я точно знаю, куда надо будет ехать учиться кататься на двух колёсах!

После возвращения я попыталась намекнуть на душ, но была почти высмеяна. Вода открывается всего на час/два утром, когда все горожане пытаются наполнить по максимуму баки на крыше, а также чайники, кастрюли, ушаты и тазики. К полудню нагревается бойлерами. К вечеру обычно снова заканчивается или остывает. Душ, как и туалет, расположен в двух лачугах на улице. Плескаться в ледяной воде, чтобы через песчаные насыпи скакать потом в дом совсем не хотелось. Два дня без душа прожила, проживу и третий, как-никак.

Весь вечер прошел на кухне. Многочисленное семейство орало и вопило, Риту уткнулась в свой Samsung S7, я мечтала о побеге. Повседневный ужин составили пара лепёшек чапати с зелёным соусом. Никаких закусок-первого-второго, не говоря уж о десерте. Перебив аппетит и устав от гомона на чужом языке, я попросилась на покой. Проходим во внутренний двор, открываем скрипучую металлическую дверь на засове и оказываемся перед одинокой кроватью. Окон нет, зато есть ещё одна дверь с подозрительным кудахтаньем по ту сторону. Риту советует мне запереться изнутри "чтобы крысы не залезли", желает спокойной ночи и удаляется.

Тетя Риту на кухне

Это всё настолько нелепо и нереально, что во мне просыпается истерический гогот. Сквозь смех и слёзы пишу в Милан обязательный ежевечерний отчёт и предвкушаю отель в центре Джайпура...



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Ирина (2016-12-02)
Слушайте, это же жеуть какая то!!!!!
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Лера (2016-12-02)
Я больше чем крыс боюсь таких ситуаций когда не знакомые компании. Вроде пригласили и внимания не обращает ни кто, мне тоже сквозь землю провалиться хочется. И один вопрос: ну вот зачем? зачем они это делают? зачем приглашают если я не интересна?
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Катя. О (2016-12-03)
У меня такой же вопрос был. Ответа на него так и не нашла :((
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