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Индия. День 27-28. Дорожная маята и возвращение в Дели








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Индия. День 27-28. Дорожная маята и возвращение в Дели

Заскочила в тук-тук, крикнула мальцу «Гони!» и с кошельком наперевес полетела отвоёвывать своё спальное место.
Утром, спотыкаясь и запинаясь со сна, я первым делом ринулась на ресепшен – билеты не давали мне покоя и снились в страшных снах. К счастью, места по тарифу таткал ещё остались. Но в Индии ничего так просто не даётся! Три раза мы пробовали бронировать их, три раза с карты отеля блокировали стоимость, но подтверждение так и не появлялось. Администратор в итоге развёл руками и послал меня (нет, не туда, куда на его месте послала бы меня я) паковать чемодан и ни о чём не волноваться – если есть сбой в системе, то и другим билеты не достанутся, и можно будет спокойно взять их на месте. Вы можете представить себе русского человека, который сможет хладнокровно ожидать вечера в подобной ситуации? Вот! Я тоже не могу!

Насупившись, я ринулась на абордаж. На вокзал, то бишь. Заскочила в тук-тук, крикнула мальцу «Гони!» и с кошельком наперевес полетела отвоёвывать своё спальное место.

В кассе после ознакомления с моей заполненной стандартной анкетой густые брови индуса взлетели вверх, и он махнул мне головой в сторону боковой двери, мол, «пройди-ка сюда, девочка!». Помещение было стеклянным, просматривалось со всех сторон, да и рядом хозяйничал коллега, поэтому я смело вступила на территорию врага. Долго ковырялись с ним за их специализированным компьютером, пытаясь найти подходящий тариф. Нормальных билетов не было, предложить мне могли только список ожидания. Я с таким безобразием никогда не сталкивалась и относилась ко всяким листам с понятным подозрением. В списке ожидания я была четвёртой. Кассир прижимал руки к сердцу и уверял меня, что это означает стопроцентное получение койки. Билет взяла только после того, как перебрала в уме все варианты с самолётами, вертолётами и подводными лодками.

Вернувшись в хостел, покой я так и не нашла. Время прошло в чтении, в прогулках по соседним лавочкам и в еде. Я вдруг осознала, что Индия совсем скоро завершится, а я так и не наелась местного сыра панир и чёрной чечевицы дал-махани, не напилась масала-чая и кокосового молока.

       

Каждые полчаса я судорожно стискивала телефон, сворачивала пальцы в странную дулю на удачу и подобострастно взирала на экран. Когда буквально через два часа передо мной остался всего один человек, я выдохнула. Оказалось, зря. После списка ожидания в индийской системе необходимо пройти ещё один раунд – RAC, reservation against cancellation – бронь при отказе других пассажиров, при которой место тебе уже причитается, но, если достаточное количество путешественников не откажется от поездки, койку придётся делить с другими. Ещё девять человек впереди, ещё несколько часов мучений. К счастью, времени мучиться у меня было предостаточно – поезд опять перенесли, и вместо шести вечера отправиться он должен был в полночь.

Место мне выделили часов в семь.

Мой родной уже вагон 3АС не был заполнен даже на половину. Видимо, стоит ожидать посадок на пути. Главное – чтобы не будили. Примерно это успела подумать я, прицепив сумку на шею, укутавшись в платок и одеяло, и уснув на своей второй, промежуточной полке.

Поезд, естественно, опоздал. Прибыли в Дели мы во второй половине дня. Не желая снова оставаться в гордом одиночестве и учитывая опыт Zostel-а в Кхуджурахо, я бронировала место в лучшем по отзывам хостеле в городе. Район был не самым центральным, но это как раз обнадёживало – может, именно там найдутся тихие двухэтажные домики, утопающие в зелени. Знала бы я!..

Дели почти перестал шокировать и в третий приезд казался даже родным. Женские вагоны метро, толпы на выходе и вот передо мной раскидывается новый квартал. Узкие грязные улочки, кишащие машинами, повозками и людьми; крики и нескончаемое бибиканье; прилавки с подгнивающими мандаринами и тощими продавцами. Я нерешительно постояла на выходе с платформы, подумывая о возвращении в центр и поиске нормального отеля, но отзывы на букинге заставляли надеяться на лучшее.

Лучшего, увы, не случилось. Хостел заставил меня вспомнить, почему я когда-то решила в подобных местах больше не останавливаться. Даже вожделенная компания европейцев, которая могла бы спасти положение, отсутствовала. Замеченные в холле типы были угрюмы и неразговорчивы.

Не желая снова выходит в уличный хаос, я заказала доставку ужина и сразу отправилась спать – в Дели оставался всего один день, и мне не терпелось закончить все эти приключения.



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