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Индия. День 1. Дели, или добро пожаловать в Индию








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Индия. День 1. Дели, или добро пожаловать в Индию


Катерина Оралбаева

Индия представлялась мне колоритным экзотичным краем, где можно будет ночевать на вокзале так же спокойно, как в Китае, а местные женщины в красочных сари ещё и прикроют тебя лоскутным одеялком.

Я давно сюда собиралась. Настолько давно, что купленный несколько лет назад путеводитель пришлось битых два часа искать по нераспакованным после переезда коробкам. Впрочем, это все равно не помогло - в пряный гудящий воздух аэропорта Индиры Ганди я сошла, совершенно не представляя, что меня ждет на этой вожделенной земле.

В последние несколько дней перед отъездом друзья и интернет обрушили на меня целый ворох не самой приятной информации: на улицах промышляют шайки воров и мошенников, в отелях подают просроченную еду в надежде, что вы задержитесь еще на пару ночей в комнате (по большей части дамской), рикши будут возить вас по городу до полного изнеможения или разорения, а о любвеобильности местных лучше не заговаривать. Есть, говорят, какая-то пугающая статистика изнасилований, которую я предпочла не видеть.

Всё это я выслушивала с полными ужаса глазами – Индия представлялась мне колоритным экзотичным краем, где можно будет ночевать на вокзале так же спокойно, как в Китае, а местные женщины в красочных сари ещё и прикроют тебя лоскутным одеялком. В общем, наивности моей можно было позавидовать.

В пять утра огромный кондиционированный аэропорт поглотил пассажиров самолёта в считанные секунды, разметав всех по длинным очередям к обменнику. К моему удивлению, большей частью выжидающих были местные. В аляпистых рубашках, современных джинсах, с пачками банкнот в руках - они так и остались для меня загадкой. Зато довольно быстро разрешился другой вопрос, а именно почему на обмен рупий у меня ушло тогда три томительных часа.

За несколько дней до моего прибытия в стране случилась денежная реформа. Краем уха я уже слышала, что банкноты номиналом в 500 и 1000 рупий изымаются, и их лучше не брать, но не представляла себе размаха бедствия. Даже тогда, в аэропорту, я не удовольствовалась курсом 68 рупий за евро и поменяла всего ничего - до города добраться и с голода не умереть.

В аэропорту же была куплена местная сим-карта. Представитель Vodafone заботливо поинтересовался, достаточно ли я получила денег в обменнике, что заставило меня покрепче прижать к отсутствующему прессу сумку, но больше никаких мыслей не вызвало.

Чистейшее и аккуратнейшее метро с первыми женщинами в традиционных нарядах сальвар-камиз и темнолицыми стариками везёт меня в город. Дешевый отель, бронированный на две ночи, находится недалеко от места прибытия, и я, довольная и расслабленная, выхожу на улицу.

Первый шок случился здесь же. В нос мне ударил запах застарелой мочи и гнилья, солнце заставило зажмуриться, от шума гудящих непрерывно туктуков закружилась голова. Первым порывом было юркнуть туда, назад, в лоно чистого и тихого метро, но вместо этого, видимо, от испуга, я схватила покрепче единственную свою сумку, определила по навигатору направление и решительно вышла на шкворчащую и шипящую дорогу.

Следующие пятнадцать минут показались мне страшным сном. На проезжей части царил полный хаос из рикшей, машин, велосипедов и запряженных буйволов. Вжимаясь в обочину, я не думала уже даже о груде зловонного мусора, по которому приходилось бежать, надеясь просто не быть раздавленной этой безумной толпой.

Сразу за углом начались настоящие трущобы, где под навесом люди в грязных лохмотьях что-то варили в котлах, переругивались, дремали на изношенных подстилках, пили чай и тут же испражнялись, злобно поглядывая на прохожих. Я неслась вперёд и не чувствовала собственного дыхания. На перекрёстке решила проверить карту и поняла, что бегу в противоположном направлении. Возвращение назад, пересечение рынка, мост, жилой квартал с нескончаемыми вывесками низкопробных отелей.

Свой я нашла на удивление быстро. Наверное, даже если бы мне подсунули собачью конуру в тот момент, я была бы не в силах сопротивляться. Отель не имел почти ничего общего с фотографиями на Букинге. Пучеглазые рыбы в аквариуме проводили меня молчаливым взором, открывая и закрывая рот, будто в немом предостережении. На ресепшене на ломаном английском у меня попросили внести часть оплаты вперёд и проводили в комнату.

  

Почему некоторые люди устраивают себе периодически подобные встряски, я не знаю, даже несмотря на то, что вхожу в их число. Цены в Индии настолько ниже итальянских, что можно было взять приличный отель в самом центре и не обратить внимания на счет. Но нет. Та Индия, с благоухающими маслами ванными, белоснежными подушками и услужливыми швейцарами казалась мне ненастоящей. Настоящее должно было крыться именно здесь, среди простого люда. Захотела - получила!

Если вы смотрели фильм "Пляж" с Леонардо ди Каприо, то можете примерно представить мой номер. Под потолком лениво разгонял мух вентилятор. Из прикрытых шторками крошечных окон раздавался уличный галдёж и чьи-то смачные отхаркивания. Чистота белья на кровати вызывала основательные подозрения. Душ же – ооо!! этот индийский душ! – оказался крошечным закутком с дыркой для воды рядом с унитазом и ведром непонятного предназначения с повешенным на него ковшиком.

Я села на сероватую простыню и попыталась осознать происходящее. Было ощущение, что меня с головой окунули в помойную яму. Всё естество сопротивлялось и вопило, что это не мой мир, и что мне здесь не место. Малодушно подумалось о приобретении нового обратного билета на этот же вечер. Или билета в спокойный соседний Вьетнам или тот же Китай. Думалось, правда, очень плохо – сказывались часы перелёта, разница во времени и просто усталость от навалившихся эмоций. Что в такой ситуации сделал бы нормальный человек? Правильно! Я постелила под голову куртку, боясь прикоснуться к наволочке, и, не раздеваясь, уснула мёртвым сном.

Проснулась после обеда с забитым носом и не прошедшей усталостью. За окном ничего не изменилось: люди перекрикивались на непонятном языке, гудели клаксоны, лаяли собаки. Оставаться в номере не была смысла, и я решилась на первую вылазку.

Передвигаться по городу было откровенно страшно. Казалось, что каждый встречный вышел на улицу с одной единственной целью - ограбить меня или ещё какое непотребство совершить. Тот факт, что город продолжал жить своей жизнью, что уличные лоточники просто продавали мандарины и манго, рикши развозили клиентов, а хозяева ресторанов зазывали в полумрак своих помещений голодных зевак, ничего не менял. Все они были в сговоре и разыгрывали сцену повседневности, чтобы сбить меня с толку. Мёртвой хваткой вцепившись в сумку, я пробиралась через это логово врага.

В сотне метрах от моего пристанища была замечена забегаловка с кафе на крыше, которая недавно мелькала на фото уехавшей сюда знакомой. Бальзам на душу. По тёмной узкой лестнице поднимаюсь наверх, смотрю на уличный хаос и на дырявые скатерти и, не застав живой души, ухожу восвояси.

Вспомнив о денежном вопросе, захожу в несколько уличных обменников, но везде натыкаюсь на одну и ту же фразу: "no cash". В одном месте хозяин пообещал привезти деньги к вечеру, но предложил курс в 60 рупий за евро. Пришлось вежливо отказаться.

Аппетита не было, от уличного гомона начинала раскалываться голова, телефон для фотографий доставать из кармана было боязно, и уже через пару часов я вернулась в свою унылую конуру. Желание было только одно - уснуть и проснуться в родном Милане. С надеждой на это я и отключилась. В джинсах и футболке, так и не рискнув воспользоваться душем.


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Илья С (2016-11-29)
Дели не самый лучший город в Индии, я верен дальше Вам понравиться. Да и выспаться надо. С "условиями проживания" беда не сомненно, но не смертельно! Потом смеяться будете
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Хозяйка кофейни (2016-11-30)
Катя, она такая... Отоспится и Индии мало не покажется )
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Катя О. (2016-12-01)
Вы правы! Уже смеюсь! :)) хоть и продолжаю вляпываться в ту же историю!
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Настя (2016-11-30)
Ура, новое путешествие Кати Оралбаевой. В этот раз Индия! Нетуристическая! Буду читать. Катин Шантарам)
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Катя О. (2016-12-01)
"Шантарам" как раз сейчас читаю. Нет-нет, такого мне не надо! :)
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