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Прогулка по Монмартру








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Прогулка по Монмартру

Мы на самой вершине Монмартра! Накануне прочитала, что рисовать на Монмартре разрешают только после жесткого отбора и "ведусь" на обещание одного из художников за 20 минут нарисовать портрет пастелью...










С утра идет дождик, хотя прогноз обещает тепло и сухо. Завтрак сегодня поздний, пока добираемся до Монмартра, маленькая часовая стрелка вплотную подобралась к одиннадцати. И вот оно, то самое кафе "Две мельницы",



расположившееся на углу Дома N 15 по улице Лепик. Здесь снималась большая часть "Амели". Но про "Две мельницы" отдельный пост!
Напитавшись духом любимого фильма, идем бродить по Монмартру... 




Здесь все интересуются искусством и люди, и собаки :-)


Или танцуют вместе


А вот собачки и их туфельки :-)

Минут через 15 заскакиваем в какую-то забегаловку переждать  дождь, 



выпить бокальчик красного вина с сыром. 
Мы тут совсем одни 



и весь персонал минут 15 готовит нам заказанное плато с хамоном и сыром! Вино, которое посоветовал нам милый молодой человек, совсем не вкусное, и я отставлю бокал в сторону.



А вот наше плато, и мы взираем на него с удивлением - настолько филигранно нарезано несколько сортов копченых колбас и колбасок, хамона и сыра! При этом официант рассказывает, откуда каждый вид колбасы или хамона, и чем он знаменит!
Вино, постояв в бокале приобретает приятный вкус, и я с наслаждением его выпиваю, перепробовав все виды колбас, хамона и сыра. Особенно понравилась лионская тонкая колбаска!
Еще минут через 10 в кафушке стало не протолкнуться. 



Время обеда. 



А нам пора продолжить нашу прогулку!

Поднимаемся по Лепик вверх, мимо одной из старейших мельниц Мулен де ля Галет - несколько кадров для галочки — понятно, что с таким небом фото будут никакие...



И вот мы на самой вершине Монмартра! Накануне прочитала, что рисовать на Монмартре разрешают только после жесткого отбора и "ведусь" на обещание одного из художников за 20 минут нарисовать портрет пастелью... Ну не знаю, не знаю... Как сказал мой спутник, художник добавил 8 килограмм лишнего веса, а мне кажется еще и лишних лет 10...


Ну вот такое виденье у художника :-)

Музей Сальвадора Дали... Есть аудио гид на русском. Не претендую на какие-то искусствоведческие знания, но все же мне кажется, что искусство в красоте, а не в уродстве, гений там где восхищение рождается само по себе, а не от объяснений, что автор "хотел рассказать". Видать, не доросла еще...
Далее идем на площадь Далиды, где стоит четвертый по счету памятник женщине в Париже. 



Памятник Далиде на Монмартре идет вслед за Жанной Д'Арк, Сарой Бернар и Эдит Пиаф...
От площади Далиды выходим на удивительно живописную Абревуар, 



идем мимо ворот с голубями,



мимо "розового дома", где жил и творил Морис Утрилло (в настоящее время в доме кафе),  



идем любуемся, и... Выходим к Базилике Сакре-Кер. А дождь все идет и идет...



Прогуливаемся вокруг и спускаемся - пора уже подкрепиться :), если повезет, то дорога выведет нас на rue Abbessent, где имеется рыбный ресторанчик! Хочется устриц и шампанского, где еще шиковать, как не в богемном квартале?
По дороге не могу отказать себе в маленькой слабости - покупаю шляпку а-ля Франце и чувствую себя абсолютно счастливой!
Выходим к тому самому ресторанчику. Заказываю кофе - отвратительный, как обычно в Париже, 



но настроение это прискорбное обстоятельство мне не портит. А тем временем на столике проявляются устрицы 



и шампанское...




И соседки устрицами балуются :-)
 
Вкусный ужин, прекрасное вино, осталось отдать долг "красной мельнице" 



и можно возвращаться...
Замечательный день, невероятно романтичный и гостеприимный Монмартр... Как хочется верить, что это первое посещение будет одним из многих...



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Настя (2014-12-24)
Очень интересная история, как будто сам побывал, заглянул в кофеенки, погладил изысканных французских псов, глотнул ароматного кофе, постучал каблуками по мостовой Абревуар. И зонтики красные, и дети в полосатых кофтах с фантастическими собаками, и пожилые дамы с чашей устриц. Все интересно! А натюрмортики в кофейнях, так бы и попробовал все это. Эх. А художник, ухвативший в лучистых глазах нечто свое, французское видимо. Такой интересный портрет получился. Спасибо за прекрасную историю!
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Хозяйка кофейни (2014-12-25)
Мостовая Абревуар стоит, чтобы постучать по ней каблучками, чего я Вам искренне и желаю!!!!
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Адрей (2014-12-24)
Интересное изложение, хорошее фото и сайт очень приятный... А портрет с Монмартра и фото совсем не похожи
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Хозяйка кофейни (2014-12-25)
Мне тоже кажется, что на портрете совсем не я...
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Keti (2015-01-13)
А мне кажется что то общее есть!
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Антон (2015-04-19)
ИСТОРИЯ ПРИЯТНАЯ, фото с официантом очень удачное, а где же шляпка?)))
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Хозяйка кофейни (2016-01-22)
И правда? Где? ))
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